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18 Oct 2026

How We Cut a Full-Grain Leather Jacket

From hide selection at the tannery to the final saddle stitch — a walk through our Sialkot atelier and the 40-odd steps behind every UNIMA leather jacket.

NANaseer Ahmed5 min read
LeatherCraftFactory
Artisan hand-stitching a full-grain leather jacket panel in the UNIMA atelier

Every UNIMA leather piece begins long before the first cut — it begins at the tannery, where our head of leather personally selects each full-grain hide. We look for a tight, even grain, a natural shine and no corrected sanding, because a jacket is only as honest as the hide it comes from.

From hide to pattern

Back at the atelier, each hide rests for a day before cutting. Our master cutter lays the paper pattern by hand, working around the natural contours of the skin — the densest areas become shoulders and sleeves, the softest become collars.

  • Every panel is cut single-hide, so grain and colour flow continuously around the body
  • Stress points are reinforced with a second hidden layer, stitched before assembly
  • Edges are skived by hand to a feather taper so seams fold without bulk

The saddle stitch

Machines are fast, but for the seams that carry weight we still use the two-needle saddle stitch. It is slower — a full jacket takes our best hands the better part of a day — but if one stitch ever breaks, the seam holds. That is the whole point.

A UNIMA jacket is built to be repaired, not replaced. We keep the panel patterns on file, so years from now we can replace a sleeve or re-line a body and send it back out into the world.

Try it on

The atelier ships worldwide. If you are weighing your first full-grain piece, send us a message — we will walk you through hides, fits and care, with a free mockup before you commit.

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